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Own-brand wines you actually want to own

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Berry Bros & Rudd Wine Merchants in London
Modern classics: Berry Bros & Rudd has been selling
wine for three centuries and is now using own-brand wines to
connect with its past. Photograph: Tim Graham/Getty

Definition Rioja Reserva 2009 (£11.99, or £9.99 as part
of a case of six bottles,
Given how much effort they put into distinguishing themselves from
the supermarkets, it’s curious how many specialist wine retailers
have come out with their own versions of that most supermarket of
practices: the own-label range, lately. The idea is that we punters
should trust the retailer’s name as much as any producer. But why
make the effort to go somewhere that prides itself on its diversity
only to buy bottles where the maker’s name is either obscured or,
in some cases, a secret? When it works, I suppose, the question is
moot, and for the most part Majestic’s Definition range does work:
certainly its wonderfully suave and savoury…

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